I was lucky enough this week to be joined by good friend and fellow paddler Chris Charlton, along with a group of first year degree students from UCLAN (University of Central Lancashire) who were studying a mixture Outdoor Leadership and Adventure Sports Leadership. We were based out of Ty’n Dwr Hall in Llangollen North Wales.
We had spent some time discussing our aims and had decided that a journey on Bala Lake was going to be the order of the day. It was a cold and frosty morning as we loaded the boats and sorted the kit, and this cold theme was to continue throughout the day. After a short drive through a wintry landscape, we arrived in Bala and made a quick stop for the all essential brew kit, chocolate biscuits and marshmallows to accompany our Kelly Kettle. Chris and I had introduced the group to and given them a few top tips and handy hints on how to light it the day before whilst paddling at Ellsemere.
Bala Lake or LLyn Tegid (Lake of Serenity) as its know in Welsh, is Wales’s largest natural lake and measures 4 miles (6km) long by a 1 mile (1.5km) Wide. It is crossed by the River Dee and its waters are famously deep and clear. Bala itself is located within Gwynedd in the Snowdonia National Park, partway between Llangollen and Betws y Coed and is easily accessed via the A5 which runs through North Wales.
It was going to be a chilly one!
As we arrived at our launch point I noticed the in car thermometer reading a cool -9 outside! Today was going to be a tad chilly. We had chosen to launch a short distance from the normal shoreline due to the ice on the ramp down to the water. Instead we had opted for a layby approximately 200m further down the road on the Western side of the lake. This proved easier access with only a short boat carry down some steps to the water’s edge. There is a launching and parking fee payable for using the lake, so its a good idea to visit the Lake Wardens Office at the Bala end of the Lake, above the public conveniences prior to launching. You can then be advised on where to launch, weather and any events etc that may be happening. There is also a Watersports Centre (Bala Watersports) based on the lake with hire facilities.
getting the boats to the water
The Chuckle Brothers - me & Chris
As Chris and I got down to the waters edge, the view was stunning and reminded me of the sort of thing you might expect to find on a Christmas card, very white and crisp. There was a mist hanging around over the water producing a very picturesque scene, with every now and then a quick glimpse of the sun. The students even commented on its resemblance of a scene out of Narnia. I have only experienced theses near perfect conditions once before on Bala Lake and it really is hard to try to describe them. I guess you would just have to have been there!
Jules, do I really have to go paddling? Its cold!
One of the many glimpses of the sun
Smiling faces and ready for a paddling adventure
Boats loaded, group briefed we set off into the mist and headed south down the lake keeping the western shore to our right even though we couldn’t see it! It really was cold as we paddled into the magical silence except for the occasional splash from our paddles.
As we paddled along there were more frequent breaks in the mist and glimpses of the sun all adding to the ambiance. During one of these breaks we caught a glimpse of a small cottage on the shore. This seemed like an ideal place for a leg stretch, some lunch and a brew courtesy of our Kelly Kettle.
Kelly Kettle’s always seem to go down well with groups. I tend to show people how to light them using Birch bark and a firesteel. My preference for a firesteel over matches or a lighter is that it will still work even when it is wet.
Lunch over with it was time to continue on our journey. So boats were packed, launched and we continued, but first we spent some time revisiting some of the core skills needed for paddling a canoe tandem.
I had chosen my two favorite deep water paddles for the day, both of which were hand made for me by a friend. I am hoping that in the new year he is going to educate me in how to make my own. So Andy if your reading this, big hint!
My deep water paddles. Otter tail (L) & Voyageur (R)
Both paddles are well suited to cruising on deep, flat water due to their low aspect. I suppose you could even consider them as your 4th & 5th gear, as opposed to a white water paddle being 1st & 2nd gear. The reason for the Voyageur’s distinct yet simplistic shape is two fold. Firstly it was easy for the Voyageurs to carve with its straight sides when on the trail, and secondly the obvious shoulders makes sure that any water drips run off here, rather than running down the shaft to the paddlers hands.
As we paddled once again into the mist the sun and blue sky was now becoming more frequent, and it wasnt long before we reached the eastern shore not far from Llangower Point. From here we headed North up the lake before finally heading back to our start point.
Once back safely on shore it was time for one last brew from the Kelly Kettle and an opportunity to finish off the chocolate biscuits and marshmallows.
A great ending to a great day, especially in those conditions. I shall leave you with my final view of the day as the sun set.
Looking back over Bala Lake as the sun sets
You can see all the photos from our day on the Voyageur Facebook page here.
Any one that knows me will tell you that Rannoch Moor has to be one of my favorite remote/wilderness spots for a paddling adventures in Scotland. I have completed the cross Scotland trip starting at Kinloch Leven and finishing at Perth a number of times and never tire of it, but I had not completed the trip via the the smaller Lochs Ba and Laidon. So inspired by Justine Curgenven’s recent DVD release, “This is Canoeing” I decided to go and investigate the area in preparation for a future trip.
Rannoch Moor - Does what is says on the tin!
Rannoch Moor lies in the Scottish Highlands and can be accessed via the A82 as it winds its way from Glasgow, through Crianlarich onto Glencoe then on to the west coast and Fort William. Due to its height above sea level, its location in relation to the west coast and its weather, expect the climate to be unsettled, often bringing snow, sleet and heavy rain throughout the year. This trip would prove to be no exception!
As I was heading over to Ballachulish for the night and looking forward to the prospect of visiting the Clachaig Inn for a pint of Guinness, I thought I would check out the start point for my planned trip. My start point, Loch Ba is said to be one of Britain’s most remote and windswept points, as the A82 crosses over to Glencoe, and at a height of 1142 ft above sea level. The surrounding area is covered with numerous lochans, streams, peat bogs and mountains that rise on all sides to over 600m and in some cases alot higher.
On arriving at Loch Ba I felt a little deflated as I became aware of some quite serious looking roadworks going on right were I had intended launching! Not to be deterred I headed back from where I had just driven a short distance and in actual fact found a better launch spot with good parking on the opposite side of the road at Lochan Na Achlaise. Winner! The weather was cracking, the views were stunning and I was looking forward to my forthcoming adventure.
Looking across from my start point Lochan Na Achlaise, on a dry day!
The morning after my recce and visit to the Clachaig Inn dawned a little different to the previous day! It was poring with rain and blowing a gale, and this was at sea level. Not to miss the opportunity I ventured out and drove back up the Glencoe Pass to my start point.
Not quite as I had remembered it form the previous day!
A different look to Rannoch Moor
My plan now was to head out of Loch Na Achalaise via a tributary that fed into Loch Ba. Then to paddle its length and again pick a tributary this time leading into Loch Laidon, then continuing on to Rannoch Station, an over night bivy and reverse the route back to where I had started. Easy!! Or not as the case may be.
As I unloaded my boat and kit in the wind and rain, a figure emerged from a rather steamed up 4×4. This turned out to be a guy visiting from Norway and in some broken English asked me as to my intentions. At this point he looked somewhat shocked, wished me luck and diapered back to the steamy 4×4.
Getting my boat down to the water
As I unloaded and launched my boat etc I became aware of a very strange noise coming from the mist. After having heard it several times it dawned on me as to what it was, a roaring Stag! At this time of year the Stags are in their rutting season and competing for the females (Hind). This roaring is a very distinct if not unnerving sound especially when it is coming out of the mist and you cant actually see whats making it. The Stags roar in order to maintain control over a group of females and to constantly drive away rival males. I was now hoping I might catch a glimpse of one of theses magnificent beasts roaring. Bit difficult in a bright yellow cag though!
Time for a break whilst keeping an eye out for Stags
The weather was definitely getting worse, and I was beginning to think that maybe I wouldn’t make my goal and more to the point was this such a good idea? After a brief chat with my self I decided to continue and seek shelter under a small bridge over which the A82 ran and have some lunch. This comprised of some brown biscuits and vegetable spread followed by some fruit biscuits and chocolate all left over from a military ration pack I had recently used for some work.
Lunch and a blast from my past
Savoring the exquisite cuisine
Looking back into Lochan Na Achlaise
Time to portage
After my brief lunch it was time to move on, however as you can see from the picture my path was blocked largely due to a lack of water. My only option now being some form of portage. The ground was to too soft and boggy for a trolley, plus I’m not really a big fan of them. Carrying my boat on my shoulders with the aid of the Yoke was also not an option due to the soft uneven ground. This left me with the only option. Dragging! So I rigged a quick harness system and used the two half’s of my canoe pole like ski poles and set off looking something like a Polar explorer man-hauling a pulk. It wasn’t really possible to carry kit and drag my boat so I decided to carry my kit a short distance first and whilst doing so I could identify a suitable route to drag my boat along. Once my kit was dumped I could return unloaded and collect my boat. I use a similar routine when carrying my boat and adopt a preference for quite short legs or stages as I go. A stage was a convenient stopping place used by Voyageurs at which loads were dumped, and they were generally around six minutes apart. This being the length of time a man could walk with a good load without fatigue. The idea is that he would recuperate on the way back for the next load. It was taken from the native Indian system of packing allowing better time to be made.
My simple harness
I eventually arrived at the start of Loch Ba and wasted no time continuing on my trip. However as I was about to get into my boat I noticed something moving in the grass. On closer inspection I discovered I had a friend in the form of a small frog!
My little friend
Loch Ba is approximately 2.5 long and eventually leads into the River Ba which flows into Loch Laidon. It was around this point that the weather calmed down for a while and I was again aware of that haunting sound of the roaring Stags. I decided that as the noise seemed close I would investigate further and see if I could locate the Stag and possibly get a picture. I set off and sure enough during a brief break in the mist, a large stag in all its glory appeared about 150m in front of me, with another one on top of a rise some distance way. Between them was a group of 5 or 6 females (Hinds). I decided to try my luck and get closer, but as I have already said being in a bright yellow cag probably wasn’t the best idea. As I got closer and with one last roar the closest Stag took flight and disappeared with his hareem. I quickly grabbed the chance of a picture. Its not the best but here it is.
The Roaring Stag
After another couple of km dragging, carrying, poling, lining and paddling I entered Loach Laidon. This now felt very remote and wild and despite the weather the scene was stunning, I had a real sense of pleasure getting here. As if by magic a Royal Navy search and rescue helicopter appeared very low but above me. It was so low infact I could clearly see the pilots face. I guess they were just wondering what or who was up there dragging a canoe around in this weather. The side door slid open and the winch-man appeared signaling to me an OK sign with his thumb. I returned the gesture with both thumbs and with he a big smile on his face he returned in side, closed the door and as quickly as it had appeared it disappeared. A quite surreal experience!!
Unfortunately at this point my camera gave up the will to live! So no more pictures. I was now quite aware of time and the weather, as I had pretty much had the wind behind me all day aiding my progress. I was now just over half way down Loch Laidon and the weather was definitely worsening. If I cut my journey short now and started heading back I would probably make it back to the car that night. If I pushed on to the end of the Loch I couldn’t guarantee finding a suitable bivy spot, and if the weather deteriorated yet further over night then I couldn’t be sure I would get back.
Decision made I turned around and headed back. Batting into the wind was no pleasure I can promise you. By the time I reached the car the light was fading and I was tired but happy.
I now had a good idea of what would be involved when I attempt a crossing from here later next year. Another thought is to start down near Oban, up Loch Etive and then portage Glen Etive via road and tracks to reach Loch Ba and then continue the crossing via Loch’s Rannoch and Tummel etc. Either way it will make for an interesting tale.
Rannoch Moor really is a special place and I would encourage you to go and paddle it for your self. Remember though it is a serious trip and a remote environment so make sure you are well prepared for the weather you may encounter and carry the right safety kit.
Meanwhile I’m busy planning a winter trip starting at Mallaig journeying to Loch Arkaig and on to Fort William or even Ballachulish.
Over the weekend we donned dry suits and took a few Mad River Canoes to join around 50 other paddlers taking part in the ’Rubbish River Run’ clean up paddle on the River Usk in Wales.
The river clean team ready to go
Flowing through the Brecon Beacons National park, the river Usk boasts a number of classic UK whitewater sections popular with paddlers through the winter months. In light of this the park authority have put paddling firmly on their radar with the launch of Splash, an initiative aimed at bringing together groups who use the river and other local water ways recreationally.
The Rubbish Run was the brainchild of Gez Richards, the parks recreational development officer. With help from local outdoor centres, paddling clubs and Tidy Wales, he decided it was time to raise paddler’s awareness of our role as custodians of the river environment and of course as a keen paddler himself, to get some profile for paddling activity in the area whilst doing it.
Tools for the job
Meeting up in the town of Brecon for a photo call and briefing, groups were allocated different sections of the river covering around 20 or so miles in total. Equipped with refuse bags, litter pickers and grappling hooks for any larger items, everyone went off in search of rubbish. Most debris found on stretches like this is a mix of plastic bags, litter wrappers and agricultural material, which gets caught up in the trees on either bank. Apart from the eyesore the real danger is for wildlife either eating or getting tangled up.
By the end of the day 54 full refuse sacks were collected and deposited at nominated roadside locations where the local refuse collectors had agreed to pick them. Along with the bags we also found a motley collection of rusting bikes, old tyres, gas canisters bits of drain pipe and a see-saw – quite a haul!
A big thanks to Gez for organising and all of the paddlers who turned out. If you are doing anything like this in your area let us know and we’ll give you a plug.
New for 2011 were introducing a complete range of new touring jackets. From the expedition ready Alaska to the ‘do-it-all’ Aegean, they all feature brand new articulated cuts with pre-bent sleeves. Innovative detailing such as a bright (and safe) new colour palette and laser cut drainage with reflective reinforcement ensures that not only are these jackets the most technically advanced we’ve ever produced – they’re the best looking too.
After a 3 weeks successful expedition around the north west corner of Spitzbergen our camera is as loaded of megapixels as our heads of impressions and new experience. Weather changes fast, wind is strong and the trip could have taken a month. By turning night into day (paddling and sleeping when possible…) we managed to cover 550K in 16 days. That including a 30K “kayak hiking”- crossing a glacier with our boats. Here is a taste of the adventure:
14 polarbears… some close to the camp and had to be scared away with flare-guns. These two friendly sweeties were just passing by…
The majestic Mittag Leffner-glacier had to be crossed – or we had to return and paddle 450K back…
12hrs of hard work crossing morains and glacier rivers, to get on to the high point.
Down the Ragnarglacier was like walking the dog.
Rafting down a dirty glacier-river for 6 hrs was much better than to carry all the gear down the moraine (would be a 2 days struggle). And off course we were were dry and comfortable in our suits.
At last we reached the Billefjord and continued the trip.
Great day on the Vestfjorden with the Lofoten Islands in the distance. No need for freeze dried expedition meals on this training trip. The fjord is full of fish dinner was caught as usual.
After climbing the Hamarøy Peak (seen on picture) we entered the kayaks on low tide.
Blue mussels appeared and we could fill the boats!
Took the chance of not calling the poison-information… Made a nice fire, put the mussels in a big pot with a few cups of white wine and garlic. What a meal! Was watching Per-Thore as he ate like crazy…Hoping… But no, we are both still breathing so mussels seems to be OK.
You always get that stone-age-man-feeling when catching your own food. Unfortunately we cannot expect to live on the land at Spitzbergen.
Myself and ocean rower Sarah Outen travelled 150 miles across the UK by Stand Up Paddleboard, from Bath to London, reaching Tower Bridge on Tuesday 8th June.
Dave, a world-record breaking skateboarder and endurance kayaker, is currently exploring the boundaries of distance Stand Up Paddleboarding with one eye on a world record journey in 2011. Sarah is preparing for a two and half year global circumnavigation starting in London in April 2011, her first major expedition was a 4000 mile solo row across the Indian Ocean in 2009, which earned her three world records.
As passionate supporters of Blue’s aims, Dave and Sarah decided to undertake this expedition to celebrate the inland waterways of Britain, concluding their journey beneath London’s Tower Bridge on World Oceans Day. Throughout their journey they were joined by paddlers, cyclists and walkers, amassing a total of 875 Blue Miles (miles travelled on or by the water) during their week-long paddle.
Along the length of the Kennet & Avon Canal and the latter section of the River Thames Dave and Sarah faced a number of obstacles. Remarkably, an early June heat wave took its effect on the pair, and as expected 115 portages in the shape of locks and weirs turned this effort from a mere paddle into a true endurance event. Without doubt, though, the greatest difficulty was standing up for an average of 11 hours a day!
On their approach to London a deserved climax beneath Tower Bridge seemed to be in jeopardy as the Harbour Master ordered them out of the water just three miles from the end. Dave and Sarah hoisted boards onto shoulders and marched alongside the Thames past Westminster and the London Eye, determined to reach their destination even if it was on dry land. Thankfully, the Harbour Master had a change of heart and sent out a boat to escort them between Waterloo and Tower Bridge.
It was a truly iconic finish to the longest Stand Up Paddleboarding journey seen by the UK to date.
Earlier this year the folks from the Family Adventure Store introduced us to Dave Cornthwaite who was looking for some help for an upcoming series of what would be best described as adventurous endeavours.
We had heard of Dave before (vaguely) from a bit of national media coverage of him going to work on his Stand Up Board and previously having undertaken a solo epic to skateboard across Australia!
We are fortunate that a lot of people admire our Palm kit and so we receive a lot of support requests. Sadly we can’t help everyone, so we have to be selective. In Dave’s case he proposed three unique water journeys under the banner of ‘The Great Big Paddle’, in each case using different forms of craft. This alone was intriguing, but nowadays we look for more than just a paddling adventure when we sponsor, so with charitable and educational side projects and a natural ability to generate interest at both local and national levels Dave got our full attention.
That was in the late spring. What has occur ed since is a magnificent journey down the length of the Murray River that is a wonderful and inspirational tale to follow whilst also forming, in our opinion, a superb template for those aspiring to undertake adventure challenge.
After our first successful mission in the North west, we decided to focus on the Central Highlands and on the possibility of some bigger drops and bigger volume. So, it was back onto the train ready for a 28 hour journey to the city of Nah Trang, followed by an invigorating 5 hours in a minibus to the town of Da Lat.
An exciting early morning portage
With our base set up, the team headed out to collect as much information about the surrounding area as possible employing scooters, taxis and mini-rafts to check out the flows. All signs seemed to point North to the Yok Don National Park.
Yet another lengthy drive delivered us, in darkness, to the Dray Sap Waterfall. Although the team couldn’t yet see the fall it sounded thoroughly promising, and as morning broke it became obvious we weren’t going to be disappointed.
Andy looks up at the mighty Dray-Sap Falls
Whilst chatting to the locals it became apparent that there were some more falls about 5km further up the river, a short tractor ride delivered us and the kit to another set of sweet looking drops.
Andy hitting his line
The guys ran various different lines on the top falls and then headed downstream, with some intrepidation and anticipation of Dray Sap Falls themselves. On reaching the falls, the team split up and explored the full width of the river. A couple of lines were decided upon and the rest of the afternoon was spent on various descents.
Luke on Dray Sap Left
Another mission completed, the team are heading back to the coast for a couple of days before beginning the lengthy journey back through Vietnam and China to Hong Kong.
